Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Don't Cry For Me Argentina





My last week in Buenos Aires was full of sad goodbyes and tears.

I met with Maria one last time in an old, classic coffee shop in Recoleta called Josephina’s, where she handed over the precious glass jar of homemade dulce de leche! It was spotted going through customs but I played dumb pretending not to understand “vidrio” was “glass” and “miel” was a prohibited animal product. The officer got so frustrated at me when I said “dictionary” in English and started searching through my backpack, that he just waved me and my two suitcases through. It was, after all, Chile Independence Day and no one was happy to be working. I am so glad they did not question the two boxes of Havanna alfajores that my Argentine family gave to me my last night at home.

The German girls we met in our hostel in Colonia, Uruguay made their way to Buenos Aires Wednesday and we all went out in San Telmo for a nice Italian and wine dinner. This part of town is really sketchy at night and a creepster walking by leaned in 2 inches away from my face to attempt to lick me and say that he liked my earrings. I love my handcrafted, 5 peso earrings too….from my street shopping adventures on Calle Florida and Calle Peru.

I cant believe my last week in Buenos Aires I found out how cheap the beauty salons on every corner of the city are….I know Argentine women are obsessive about their bodies, but one should also know its quite affordable. So I splurged for a 45 minute back massage and complete pedicure of my worn out feet all for under $25. Then I relaxed at the local movie theater to see the opening of “Eat Love Pray”. A book that many think fit me perfectly….I also have a 3 phase plan in my complete escape from everything that I had in the USA (3 months each in Argentina, Chile, Peru). The movie was boring and you don’t catch all background connections unless you have read the book….dont waste your time seeing it.

In celebrating a co-workers birthday, we all went to Brunner’s Brewery in Recoleta right across from Evita’s cementery. Eating pizza, sampling beer, listening to rock music….one of the few places that has an American vibe. I did not like it. I am Portena now (says my family here; a complete transformation)…..I think, talk, live and act like an Argentine.

My last day at work I got a notice from the post office that the package of gifts my parents sent had finally arrived! I think there is a huge opportunity for some consulting businesses here to help with logistics and service. I had to wait in 3 different lines with all these various stickers and tickets and listen for a 7 digit number on the fuzzy intercom. After waiting 2 hours for my package, I pranced out of the office….I am not even sure if I was supposed to stop in another line and pay taxes like everyone else? (well, there I was being Argentine again and cutting corners). Did you know marshmallows are unheard of in Buenos Aires? That’s exactly what my mom sent me so I could share the American custom of roasted marshmallows with the office staff, friend and family. We toasted them on the gas stove and it was delicious!

My last day I went to El Tigre. After 3 months of living in Buenos Aires, I had seen almost everything….except Parque de la Costa, which is a roller coaster theme park that costs just $9. I have been growing into this adventurous person the past two years and roller coasters were still something on the “to conquer” list. So I went straight to the biggest one of the park with a huge dip first thing, then spiral twist followed by two back to back loops…dangling legs and caged into a box I felt somewhat safe and came out smiling the whole rest of the day!

I had been avoiding packing all week long…something psychological that if I don’t pack then maybe I wont actually be leaving this place I call “home”. But after a farewell homemade manicotti dinner, rich red wine toast, and dulce de leche dessert with my loving family….I finally had to come to terms with the 2 empty boxes still under my bed. From 1am to 3am I angrily threw my belongings into the two suitcases and cried almost an entire roll of toilet paper (I ran out of tissues, lol). I couldn’t control the sobbing and it was as if someone punched through my chest and was wringing all the love and happiness out of my heart. This must be someone kind of traveler’s depression setting in.

I can’t even describe the painful morning of goodbyes before going to the airport….it brings tears to my eyes now writing about it days later in my Chile apartment. The past 3 months have truly been the best times of my life so far (even greater than living in Mexico, backpacking through Europe or touring Beijing/Honk Kong). Argentina has a way of sweeping you off your feet as you fall in love with the incredible food, tasty wines, juicy meats, carpe diem lifestyle, corner cafes, awe inspiring architecture, lively culture, northern desserts, eastern beaches, southern Patagonia, and western mountains. Argentina has got it all!

When I was 20 years old studying and living in Mexico for a year, I told my family that half my heart was left in Mexico with the tacos and salsa dancing. I think I found the other half of my heart….in Buenos Aires.

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